return to the Bye & Bye

We went back to the Bye & Bye, which we often do.   I've heard so many good things about the grilled cheese, i just had to try it.   I've had several types of vegan cheese through the years.  When i was vegan i tried them all.   Back then, there weren't many options and the options were terrible, to be frank.  From what i gather, Bye & Bye uses Daiya for their grilled cheese.  This is the best vegan cheese i've ever had, bar-none.  The only other stuff i've had that comes close is called "vegan gourmet" and it's also very good.  Anyway, the grilled cheese was prepared really well, and you can add other items like onion, avocado, jalapeños and tomatoes.   But the cheese is just kinda soulless.  Nice and shiny and a bit stretchy, but even less soul than single wrapped kraft American cheese.  Well, maybe more soul than that, but less flavor. 

While, Daiya is good, for vegan cheese, it's still just really not that good, if you like cheese.  If you are  vegan, i suggest the grilled cheese at Bye & Bye.  If not, there are tons of other really tasty options at Bye & Bye that appeal to most carnivores and veggies alike.  I really appreciate what Daiya is doing.  I believe there are trade-offs required for the motivations in how i choose my food.  For me, local and sustainable is far more important right now than vegan (and in this case, non-local).  You can see my previous review of Bye & Bye for more details on how it stacks up in this and other regards.

Toro Bravo: tapas vegeterianos?

A couple weeks ago we reviewed Olympic Provisions.  At the time i was thinking about this fair city's top restaurants and how meat heavy they have become.  Some say this is a backlash against years pasts' vegetarian, and lactose-intolerance waves.  With the popularity of food and chef-stardom comes better food, and i think in some cases the classics are meat heavy or use meat ingredients.  These restaurants have their place in our culinary landscape.   Others attempt to cater to a wider variety of patrons and cook what some would call more challenging dishes.

manchego fritters

Toro Bravo has a good selection of meatless plates.  I went in thinking we should just order every veg. plate, but left thinking that not only did we lack room on the table, but we would have been stuffed to the gills.  In their nut mix they've had to do away with the crunchy chickpeas because people sued after breaking teeth on them.  Seriously, who sues a restaurant for serving crunchy things? The chickpeas were the best part, according to Jen.

We started, as per usual, with apps and drinks at the standing bar by the door.  Come early as there are no reservations, usually, and there is almost always a wait.   This wait, as they say, is worth it.  I had their version of the old fashioned, and Jen had the sangria.  The sangria is a must, it's so good, not that my drink didn't refresh and delight.   We used our drinks to wash down the manchego fritters.  Topped with a light, fresh tomato salsa, these are amazing.  The only thing i can compare them to, is deep-fried balls of Cheez-It® dough, but much more refined.   I can still taste them. Oh baby.

At our table quickly, we were ready and willing to order. Grilled corn w/ cilantro pesto: as it was still late summer, the corn was sweet, slightly charred, and the smothering of clarified butter certainly didn't hurt.

potatoes bravas

The Potatoes Bravas should be on everyones' table, including the omnivores amongst us.  They are like a combination of hot wings and steak-fries with an amazing house-made aioli, but done so perfectly that you really just don't want to share them.  Take heed, however, further courses may be even tastier and one needs room!  We took a quick greens break with the Sautéed spinach with pine nuts and golden raisins.   I love pine nuts, and i really don't like raisins, but this was fantastic.  Balancing the toasted seeds with the slightly tart greens with the subtle sweetness of the raisins is pure genius, despite the humble ingredients.

zucchini & sheep cheese bake

There are several salads on the menu that change with produce availability.  Ours was a butter-lettuce salad with lots of red onion and a creamy dressing with just a hint of fennel.  Finally the star, in my opinion, of the meal was the zucchini and sheeps' cheese casserole.  It's not always on the menu, but try to find something like it.  I dare say this is the best dish i've had in a month.  Jen said i was dancing in my chair with my fork like a little boy eating ice cream for the first time.

Toro Bravo (0 to **** (stars), higher=better):

• Food Quality: * * * * (4 stars, amazing food all around.  I've never had anything less than great here)
• Vegetarian menu: * * (plenty of great options with an ever-changing menu) 
• Vegan menu: * (far fewer options, but some conversions available)
• Service: * * (friendly, very fast considering how busy, non-pretentious)
• Atmosphere * * (some cafeteria style shared tables, rustic, open kitchen, can be crowded, loud, great cocktail bar upstairs)
• Green: * * (+: lots of local ingredients, - lots of meat and cured meat)
• price: $$ (moderate)
• overall: * * * (if they had more vegetarian options it could be a 4, one of my favorites in town along with Farm Cafe.)

Monkey Bar (was: Sagittarius)

Walnut Apple Salad

Ah, wonderful NoPo.  This place is right near us.   When it was called Sagittarius, we'd often get the rosemary mac n' cheese on those down and grey sundays.  Now it's "Monkey Bar", under new ownership, and the mac n' cheese remains, with several other unique menu items.

even though they were fresh, the fries were a bit soggy.  they probably need a quick par-fry which they might be skipping.
while the deep-fried veggie burger was unique and very tasty, the extra bits of the "breading", which looked more like a won-ton wrapper, were over-crunched in the oil, leaving a burned flavor.  The burger itself was definitely just out of the supply truck, and they thought it was boca, but were not sure.  It could have used 4 times as much cheese, even though i paid extra for what i did receive.  It would have also deeply benefited from some mayo.

As per usual, the mac n' cheese was very good, very creamy, but perhaps a bit under-cheesed. 

The salad was good, fresh, with a choice of dressing.  Apples were fresh and the combo of toasted walnuts and goat cheese made me feel way more healthy than if i had just eaten that plate of fries. 

rosemary mac

Sounds like the new owners want to move this in more of a bar type direction.  This doesn't bode well for the food.  And it'll be tough to compete in that market with the likes of Yorgos.  although they are very different types of places. 

Monkey Bar (0 to **** (stars), higher=better):

• Food Quality: *  (1 star, decent but inconsistent)
• Vegetarian menu: * (a few options in there) 
• Vegan menu: 0* (slim pickins)
• Service: * * (friendly, seem to pay attention to the locals more than n00bs)
• Atmosphere * (small bar, wannabe sports pub)
• Green: 0* (lots of processed and non-local foods)
• price: $$ (low to moderate)
• overall: 0* (order the mac n' cheese to go, in a pinch.  it's a bar, after-all)

Re: Five Reasons Not To Be A Vegetarian: Tim Love

image: Tydence

ran across a link to this 5@5 quicky with Tim Love chef and owner of The Lonesome Dove Western Bistro in Fort Worth, TX.  Tim gives 5 (i'm not sure he knows how to count) reasons he thinks people shouldn't be vegetarian.  I'll summarize each reason, and then give my feelings on the subject, similar to here.   But honestly, Mr. Love achieves to add nothing of substance to this discourse.

Basically, his arguments grill down to the following:
1. Meat tastes better than vegetables.  If you are vegetarian because you think the food contained in your diet tastes better, than i don't think he's convincing you.  For the rest of us, he's missing or ignoring the point.   This is all relative.   Ice cream tastes great, but no one is suggesting we eat it all the time.
2. Meat smells better than vegetables.  Uh, see above.
3. Vegetarians are preachy.  This irony is more ripe than corn fed manure.  Eat what you want.  Be educated and thoughtful about it.
4. Meat is fine in moderation and provides protein and iron and amino acids.  While i'm pretty sure all of that is true, he's pretty much made an opposing argument.  What is this, 1940?  protein, iron, and amino acids are usually the last of one's dietary problems even if one eats a vegan diet and does so poorly.
5. People look at you funny.  Yeah, well, your mom dresses you funny.

I thoroughly enjoy hearing what people have to say about their diets and thoughtful questions on mine.  I'll be the first to admit that meat can taste fantastic.  But so can a Duxelle tart with mascarpone.  Or A wild mushroom stroganoff with fresh egg noodles.   I have the choice in what i eat while staying healthy and happy.  I do it easily and willingly because it's about more than I and what goes into my mouth. 
As Michael Pollan says: "Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants."

the fixin' to

yep, i feel like i want to move slow, eat comfort food and embibe of the summer drinks when i'm in a place like this.  The fixin' to is a pretty recent addition to st. johns.   This one with some fun mid-century flair and trailer-park vibe.  The drinks are good and the food is decent, if a bit inconsistent.   It has a fantastic location right near the St. Johns Bridge. 

dang, i need a flash

It's similar to Bye and Bye, in that they serve southern comfort food, with mostly a bar feel.  It's just not as crowded, the music isn't as good, and the food isn't as good.  The former can be a good thing, and i really want this place to make it.  i love excuses to go up to st johns.
Great vegetarian selection and really good vegan selection, marked in (V) on the menu.
I had the special, a seitan BBQ sandwich (which i've had before).  Both times the cabbage was stale and chewy.  This time, the seitan had some hard, very chewy spots.  But overall it's good, despite its off-the-shelf BBQ taste.  Jen had the Chili Bowl, with corn pudding.  This is really good, and the corn pudding really saves it from it's canned chili taste.  Lots of stuff served here with fritos, and their chili pie is also good, but not as good as Bye and Bye's.

the fixin' to (0 to **** (stars), higher=better):

• Food Quality: *  (1 star, decent but inconsistent)
• Vegetarian menu: * * * (almost all items vegetarian, with meat option) 
• Vegan menu: * * (lots of vegan options)
• Service: * * (friendly, order at bar, seem to pay attention to the locals more than n00bs)
• Atmosphere * * (bar, nice outdoor patio with heat lamps)
• Green: * * (green just due to the menu, but lots of processed and non-local foods)
• overall: * (i'll go a couple times a year since it's near my house, veggie friendly and fun, but the food is nothing to write home about.  it's a bar, afterall)

eat more veggies and fruit!

photo: flydime

a friend just sent me a link to this article from USAtoday: CDC: U.S. adults eat less fruit, not enough veggies.

As we've all read, Animal-based protein diets increase mortality rate

recipes: general direction, or to the letter?

photo: deb roby

I was reading a post this am on serious eats about an upcoming cookbook which sounds interesting for those of us who often cook for meat eaters/lovers.  The Meat Lover's Meatless Cookbook: Vegetarian Recipes Carnivores Will Devour by  Kim O'Donnel.
In addition to the review of one of the recipes was the post-author's (Leslie Kelly) thoughts on recipes and how she'd recently been converted to following recipes to-the-letter when working as a professional cook. 
I know Jen always asks if i wrote down how i made something.  I mostly cook by feel (and taste, hopefully), baking excepted.  It works, most of the time, and most of the time i can reproduce what i've made.   I've only recently started thinking more about recipes and writing mine down.

What say you?  are you a recipe-follower or seat-of-pants cook?

Olympic Provisions, aka efforts in futility

MEAT photo: Olympic Provisions

I'm not one to judge.  wait, i do have a food review blog.  okay, so i judge, but i don't deny that most people like the taste of meat and enjoy it prepared with the utmost skill and care from calf to plate, as it were.  I just choose not to partake. 

There are many establishments where one might find themselves, at the behest of others.  Places like Olympic Provisions, Beast, Toro Bravo, are a few that come to mind where vegetarians might feel out of place.  Given my downright enthusiasm for unique preparations in all things, i don't mind going to these places, possibly just once, for the experience and relative knowledge.

garbanzo, summer squash salad

feta, tomato, olive salad

If you find yourself at Olympic Provisions, try to enjoy it for what it is.  Ignore the enormous "Meat" sign, order every vegetable plate, a dessert, and plan to grab a slice afterwards.   The vegetable plates are very good.  Great seasonal and local ingredients prepared care and mastery that is possibly only distracted by the main event, the meat plates.  The vegetable plates are small.  The beet salad is a consistent winner, from what we hear, and we heartily agree.  

The deserts were fantastic too, but honestly nothing totally mind blowing.   In short, go there once, gain some perspective, it won't kill you. One could also go there late for just desert and a drink and sit at the bar.  The bar had some room at 10pm on a saturday.  If this were just about the desserts, ambiance, drinks, service i'd probably give it 3 stars.  But since it's about the food, the meal overall:

Olympic Provisions (0* to **** (stars), higher=better):

• Food Quality: * * (quality prep, quality ingredients, but nothing mind-blowing; can't comment on the meat)
• Vegetarian menu: 0* (zero stars; the veggies are meant to accompany the meat plates) 
• Vegan menu: 0* (most veggies had dairy of some kind)
• Service: * * (very professional, seemingly tolerant of the vegetarians at the table)
• Atmosphere * * * (rustic/industrial but clean and inviting, crumbers but no white cloths)
• Green: * * (local, organic ingredients, but very meat heavy)
• overall: 0* (go there if you need to, enjoy the veggies and dessert)

berry bread pudding

re: Remembering Food...

David Jenkins has a very moving piece up on Portland Food and drink today.  It reflects upon the food memories of his childhood.  Recalls the cooking of his various mother-figures, and even where he was, in addition to what he was eating, when he found out JFK was assassinated.

crumb coffee cake. image: entenmann's

One of my earliest and most indelible food memories is right after we first moved to Connecticut from Maryland.  We were living with my grandparents, most of the time.  Nights and weekends were spent renovating the late 1800s house my parents scrounged to buy so Will and I could go to good schools.  On this crisp, autumn, saturday morning we (i was about 5 so i use the term 'we' loosely) were ripping out the pantry to make a bigger kitchen.   We ate entemanns crumb coffee cake on the floor of the sun porch off of paper towels.  There can be no greater breakfast than this, in my mind.  It makes me want to jump in a pile of leaves, ride my big-wheel, or play pee-wee soccer and eat orange slices, just thinking about it.  

What about you?  do you have childhood food memories?  let's get nostalgic and share in the comments.

donuts

Tonalli's in St. John's.

tonalli's.   i didn't really expect much, but they are making donuts!  in my neighborhood! 

the donuts were very very good.  Everyone always seems to compare to voodoo, which i think are kinda crappy, although they do have a vegan menu.  anyway, these are way better than voodoo, as far as their donut-ness goes.

the coffee... don't bother.  the decor, yikes.

go for the donuts, stay for... as long as it takes to pay.

 Tonalli's Donuts (0 to **** (stars), higher=better):

• Food Quality: * * (2 stars, quality prep)
• Vegetarian menu: * * * (all vegetarian, i think) 
• Vegan menu: 0* (most have eggs in them)
• Service: * (very friendly, quick, counter service)
• Atmosphere 0* (the opposite of atmosphere)
• Green: * (no idea, but i can imagine much worse)
• overall: * (better than the chains, better than voodoo, not saying much)

Animal-based protein diets increase mortality rate

image: foxypar4

"Animal-based proteins and fats are associated with increased mortality rates, including increased cardiovascular mortality and increased cancer mortality, a new study published in the Annals of Internal Medicine concludes. But low-carbohydrate, high-protein diets composed mostly of plant-based proteins and fats were associated with lower mortality rates overall and lower cardiovascular mortality rates."

via: blogs.cnn.com

sweet "Bye and Bye"

BBQ tofu/brussel bowl & chili pie

If sheer numbers are any indication, and they usually are, then this bar must be great.   We go to "Bye and Bye" all the time, and it's always busy, if not downright crowded.

It's chill, funky and the menu is vegan and amazing.  It seems like most of the patrons aren't vegetarian, let alone vegan, yet everyone has food on their tables.  There is outdoor seating, both in front and in back.

Everything i've had here is fantastic.  The "weeping tiger" sandwich, the meatball sandwich, and my current favorite, the chili pie.   It's all flavorful and their vegan cheese is incredible.

The atmosphere is good, for a bar, and the service always friendly and tattooed.  A line always forms down the middle of the bar, right under the sign that says "do not form line".  It is at the terminus of this line that one orders food and/or drinks. 

go check it out, it may become a regular spot for you, as it has for us.

Bye and Bye (0 to **** (stars), higher=better):

• Food Quality: * * (2 stars, quality prep, great menu, may contain highly processed food)
• Vegetarian menu: * * * * (100% vegetarian) 
• Vegan menu: * * * * (100% vegan)
• Service: * * (very friendly, food can take a while when crowded)
• Atmosphere * * (bar, can get very loud)
• Green: * * (green just due to the menu, but lots of processed and non-local foods)
• overall: * * (beckons with solid and quality cooking, very interesting menu, but it's still just a bar)

new FDA chain-restaurant menu rules

image: cdn.newsone.com

Last February saw passing of the "Patient Protection and Affordable Care Act of 2010" including section 4205 with verbiage on "Menu Labeling Provisions".

Now chain restaurants must show calorie contents adjacent to food on their menus.  Some locales have already rolled this out.  i saw calorie counts on lots of menus when we were recently in NYC.

For these guidelines the FDA considers chains those:
(a) with 20 or more locations,
(b) doing business under the same name (regardless of the type of ownership of the locations, e.g., individual franchisees)
(c) offering for sale substantially the same menu items.

in addition, these restaurants will have to make available further standard nutrition information (calories from fat, protein, cholesterol, etc).

according to the Bill, "Americans now consume an estimated one-third of their total calories on foods prepared outside the home and spend almost half of their food dollars on such foods." 
and "Consumers are generally unaware of, or inaccurately estimate, the number of calories they consume from such foods." 
According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), "approximately 67% of adults, and 31.7% of children ages 2-19 are overweight or obese".

What do you think?  should food retail chains be allowed the freedom to market their food as they see fit?  can consumers be trusted to make informed and healthy choices? 

"¿Por Qué No?", indeed!

 ¿Por Qué No? on Hawthorne  image: ¿por qué no?

I feel silly even posting a review of "¿Por Qué No?".  Everyone has to know about one of portland's top taquerias by now, no? Nevertheless, i feel i should cover all the bases. Though i may have eaten at many of said bases, i haven't reviewed them all. yet.

I found myself at the Por Qué No on N. Mississippi with a friend who is visiting from back east, so it was time for some snapshots and a bit of extra ordering.  it's a tough life.

As per the usual, i got the "Bryan's bowl", veggies, with tortillas.  Fresh tortillas, seasonal veggies, beans, guac.   nom.  I also needed some chips and salsa, of course.  I love their smoky, oniony salsa.   And i got a taco verduras as well.

This place is consistently good always of high quality ingredients and usually nice people taking orders.  It can get a bit busy at lunch and dinner, so get there early to try to poach a seat after you have ordered.

Por Que No's "el patio".  image: ¿por qué no?

They opened more outdoor seating at the N. Mississippi location which is a welcomed addition.  I guess i hadn't been in a while as this was installed at the beginning of the summer.

¿Por Qué No? will definitely remain one of my goto places for quick and tasty tex-mex with a sustainable flair.


¿Por Qué No? (0 to **** (stars), higher=better):

• Food Quality: * * (2 stars, quality prep and ingredients)
• Vegetarian menu: * (decent, but far more meat options) 
• Vegan menu: * (decent, leave out the cheese, sour cream, not sure on guac)
• Service: * * (very friendly, fast, bus own tables, togo boxes in dining room)
• Atmosphere * (rustic)
• Green: * * * (they really do make almost every effort they can, local ingredients, solar hot water, veggie oil powered vehicle, etc.  cons: parchment tray liners, paper napkins)
• overall: * * (beckons with solid and quality cooking)

"Ford Food and Drink" opening this Tuesday

Ford bulding. image: Portland Architecture

from the Detour cafe folks, Becky and Scott, comes "Ford Food and Drink" in the old Ford building at 3035 SE Division Street.  They are set to open this coming Tuesday 07 September, 2010.  According to pdx.eater.com, in the meantime you can checkout the space and they are serving espresso and pastries.

At opening, they plan to have lots of the breads and pastries from Detour, plus some new stuff including soups, beer and wine.  Hours are so far unknown to us.
Check out the Detour cafe's menu!  lots of veggie and vegan options.  They also have a long history of serving vegetarian and vegan "family dinner"s.

this sounds like it could be an expansion on a good thing!  maybe they'll be open for dinner?

Tapatio vs. Cholula Hot Sauces

cholula.

tapatio.

when I became a man, I put away childish things; in this case it was my beloved Frank's Hot Sauce.  I had graduated to the subtle yet bold taste of Cholula.  However, recently i have been prefering Tapatio to Cholula.   It's far cheaper, more easily available in large bottles, and somehow i just like it better.

Anyone else care to venture an opinion?
I should find something organic, local, and with no preservatives.  This does not seem likely, i guess i will end up making my own.

dated wine stopper. why?

dated wine stopper. image: designboom.com

i ran across this wine stopper that can record the date of opening a bottle.

if you can't remember when you opened it, one of two things, or both of the following, are happening:
1: you should stop drinking
2: the wine is already starting to turn to vinegar

a "Lincoln" for SE?

according to pdx.eater.com the founders of "Lincoln" on N. Williams have signed a lease in the new "reliable building" on SE Division.  Jen and i loved Lincoln when we ate there a few months ago.  Decent vegetarian selection, excellent food, great service, interesting atmosphere, and unique drinks.  hopefully this is something new and different rather than a dilution of their current brand and service

reliable building. image: urban development partners

Gravy for Breakfast

Gravy.

It was a long night, the need for a good brunch was obvious in the two of us.  We knew a wait was inevitable this saturday am. "Gravy", on N. Mississippi, fit the bill. 

As we expected adding ourselves to the list just inside the door implied a decent wait.  We strolled back up the street to get coffee at "Fresh Pot".  They brew Stumptown and my soy latte was extremely bitter.  We returned to loiter outside of Gravy and it turned out the wait was only 10 more minutes or so.  I drank my coffee and we talked about bikes (there is a shop next door). 

The menu is extensive.  I decided on a blue cheese (which they spell 'bleu'), onion, and mushroom omelette, and a side stack of blueberry pancakes.  They don't offer a single side pancake unless you replace your side potatoes with one. Jen had a scramble with cream cheese and scallions.  We also had the biscuit and veggie gravy and a side of hash-browns (on top of each of our egg's side of home fries).  Suffice it to say we had a ton of left-overs, which we brought home in their compost-able recycled-paper containers.

The omelette was fantastic, and of my own creation.  They have several to choose from but also offer the ala carte option with lots of ingredients, including veggie sausage (which is marvelous).  The scramble was great too, the eggs were nice and creamy and cooked well, and the combination of cream cheese and scallions was brilliant.

Gravy: pancakes, biscuit, gravy, fake syrup

The pancakes were disappointing.  They were a bit chewy, and if "Gravy" had real syrup, they didn't offer it.  However, the biscuit and gravy were amazing, as per usual.  The gravy is savory and complex.  I don't think i can go to this restaurant without getting a biscuit and gravy.  It tastes like the best parts of thanksgiving.

A word of caution and disappointment on the bloody marys: They contain anchovies and the mix is made ahead of time, so you can't order one without Worcestershire.  Maybe if enough of us ask, they'll use a veggie Worcestershire?

The home fries were great, with onions and seasoning.  The hash-browns were a nice and crunchy but a bit lack-luster in the flavor department.  I'm sure some people like their hashbrowns to-the-point. 

Gravy (0 to **** (stars), higher=better):

• Food Quality: * * (2 stars)
• Vegetarian menu: * * (it's breakfast, there better be lots of options)
• Vegan menu: * (eggs replaceable with tofu in scrambles)
• Service: * * * (very friendly, fast)
• Atmosphere * * (visible kitchen, open dining room, cheap chairs)
• Green: * * (cons: paper napkins, pros: recyclable to-go container)
• overall: * *